Rogan

Rogan
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Revered as a chef throughout the culinary world, Simon Rogan has a brilliant reputation for artistry, innovation and excellence, and is renowned for the talent, vision and clarity of ethos he brings to his different restaurants.Simon is the chef and restaurateur of L’Enclume, the two-Michelin-star restaurant in Cumbria which has won The Good Food Guide’s Best Restaurant for the past four years. He was a winner on BBC2’s Great British Menu and a mentor on MasterChef, and is the winner of GQ’s Chef of the Year award for 2018. Within the village of Cartmel, where he set up L’Enclume 16 years ago, there is also Rogan & Co, the relaxed neighbourhood restaurant; Aulis, a chef’s table and development kitchen; and Our Farm, where the team select what to grow, when it is harvested and how it is prepared, allowing Simon to truly set a benchmark for the calibre of ingredients he uses. In London there is Roganic, a permanent Marylebone site inspired by the original two-year pop-up which provides a window into the Cartmel operation, and Aulis London, an eight-seater chef’s table which provides a preview experience for dishes that might feature at Roganic.Simon is uniquely placed to write a definitive cookbook that changes the tenor of cookery publishing. Here is a book that perfectly communicates his philosophy of taking farmed and foraged seasonal ingredients to create unforgettable dishes. Simon has led the way in showing that innovative cookery is at its best when using local ingredients with imagination and passion. His food is primal. And it’s natural. But it’s not rough or messy. It’s beautifully refined and has transformed how we view locally sourced cuisine.Simon’s book showcases recipes using beautiful ingredients that are accessible to people everywhere. It combines vibrant recipe pictures with photography that captures the life and landscapes of Our Farm in Cumbria. Breaking the boundaries of how people use their ingredients and cook their food, this will become the cookery book of the year.

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COPYRIGHT

HarperCollinsPublishers

1 London Bridge Street

London SE1 9GF

www.harpercollins.co.uk

First published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2018

FIRST EDITION

Text © Simon Rogan, 2018

Photographs © Cristian Barnett, 2018

apart from here © nnattalli/Shutterstock.com

Photographs here, here, here and here, reproduced courtesy of the Flying Fish Company

Cover design by James Empringham © HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd 2018

Jacket image © Valentina Razumova/Shutterstock.com

Food Stylist: Nicole Herft

Prop Stylist: Lydia Brun

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library

Simon Rogan asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

Find out about HarperCollins and the environment at www.harpercollins.co.uk/green

Source ISBN: 978-0-00-823272-6

Ebook Edition © September 2018 ISBN: 9780008232733

Version 2018-11-05


CONTENTS

COVER

TITLE PAGE

COPYRIGHT

INTRODUCTION

HERBS

AYNESOME VEGETABLE INFUSION

GRILLED COURGETTES AND QUAILS’ EGGS WITH MARJORAM BUTTER

HERITAGE POTATOES WITH LOVAGE AND ONION ASH

BABY POTATOES WITH OX-EYE DAISY SPREAD AND CULTURED CREAM

DOCK PUDDING WITH RAMSON EMULSION

HALF-DRIED TOMATOES WITH ROSEHIP, MINT AND BONE MARROW CRUMB

KALIBOS CABBAGE WITH MUSSELS AND PARSNIP SAUCE

DUNCAN CABBAGE WITH OYSTERS, PUFFED PORK AND HYSSOP SAUCE

TORCHED MACKEREL WITH CHICORY MARMALADE AND TOASTED BARLEY SAUCE

SALT COD MOUSSE, BLACK RADISH AND RAMSON SAUCE

ACCORD RADISH, CURED ARCTIC CHAR AND LEMON THYME

SWEET CICELY

SWEET CICELY AND RHUBARB PICKLED HERRING

LEEK AND LANGOUSTINES WITH SWEET CICELY AND FENNEL SAUCE

SWEET CICELY CAKE

STRAWBERRIES WITH SWEET CICELY SYRUP AND SHEEP’S YOGHURT

SWEET CICELY ICE CREAM

SWEET CICELY POT WITH LEMON VERBENA AND BLUEBERRIES

VEGETABLES

RADISH STEW

SALT-BAKED TURNIP WITH EGG YOLK AND PORK LARDO

PICKLED RED PEPPERS AND FENNEL WITH SMOKED TOMATO STOCK

THREE WAYS WITH KUZU DUMPLINGS

CHEDDAR CHEESE DUMPLINGS WITH BEETROOT BROTH

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE DUMPLINGS WITH TOASTED SUNFLOWER SEED BROTH

ANISE HYSSOP DUMPLINGS WITH CHESTNUT AND BACON BROTH

BROAD BEANS WITH BABY ONIONS AND PANCETTA

GRILLED SALAD SMOKED OVER EMBERS

BEETROOT TAPIOCA CRISP

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES AND GOAT’S CHEESE MOUSSE WITH TRUFFLE

ROASTED CARROTS WITH HAM FAT

AYNSOME OFFERINGS

CELERIAC AND MUSTARD-GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS WITH CELERIAC AND APPLE SALAD

THREE WAYS WITH BLACK GARLIC

BLACK GARLIC BASE

BLACK GARLIC YOGHURT

BLACK GARLIC BUTTER

SUMMER PURPLE BROCCOLI AND SWEETBREADS WITH RAMSON CAPERS

CONFIT SARDINES WITH GRILLED COS LETTUCE SAUCE

ASPARAGUS WITH BROWN SHRIMP BUTTER SAUCE

POTATOES AND CRAB WITH CHICKEN SKIN AND HORSERADISH

CHESTNUT PASTA WITH TRUFFLE SAUCE AND CHANTERELLES

KOHLRABI

SALT-BAKED KOHLRABI WITH SMOKED EGG YOLK

VEAL AND POACHED OYSTER KOHLRABI PARCELS

BUTTER-ROASTED KOHLRABI AND KALE ROLLS

KOHLRABI GRATIN

RABBIT TERRINE WITH PICKLED KOHLRABI

BUTTERMILK FRIED OYSTERS WITH FERMENTED KOHLRABI AND FENNEL

THREE WAYS WITH KOMBUCHA

ROSEHIP AND HIBISCUS KOMBUCHA

RED CABBAGE KOMBUCHA

PUMPKIN KOMBUCHA

MEAT

CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS AND CREAMED KALE

POULTRY OFFAL DUMPLINGS

CUMBERLAND CREAMED CHICKEN LIVERS

GROUSE FAGGOTS WITH ELDERBERRY SAUCE

DUCK BREAST WITH CHERRIES AND SMOKED BEETROOT

GUINEA FOWL AND OFFAL RAGOUT WITH BROAD BEANS AND ELDERFLOWER

PORK JOWL WITH WOOD-FIRED ONIONS AND SMOKED EEL

PORK AND EEL CROQUETTES WITH FERMENTED SWEETCORN SAUCE

SUCKLING PIG WITH MEAD SAUCE

ROAST VENISON WITH GRILLED GEM LETTUCE AND ELDERBERRY CAPER SAUCE

SWEETBREADS WITH SWEETCORN PURÉE

HERDWICK LAMB

SPRING LAMB BELLY FRITTERS WITH RAMSON EMULSION

LAMB BRESAOLA

SMOKED LAMB SHOULDER

BAKED LAMB LOIN WITH SPINACH, CURDS AND WHEY

HAY-BAKED MUTTON WITH POTATO TERRINE AND BRAISED ENDIVES

LAMB CHOPS WITH AUBERGINE, NASTURTIUM CAPERS AND NETTLE BUTTER

SLOW-COOKED BEEF BRISKET WITH MUSHROOMS

BEEF BROTH WITH SLOW-BAKED SWEDE

SHORTHORN BEEF FILLET WITH HORSERADISH AND MARROW FAT SAUCE

FISH

CRAB, SQUID AND MALLOW SOUP

HUMPHREY’S POOL

SMOKED COD ROE WITH FENNEL BISCUITS AND PARSLEY SNOW

SQUID INK GRISSINI

OYSTER PEBBLE

PRAWNS WITH WHITE SAUSAGE

PORK CRACKER WITH PRAWNS AND TARRAGON EMULSION

CUBES FROM LAND AND SEA WITH EUCALYPTUS HOLLANDAISE

PAN-FRIED SEA BASS WITH ROASTED FISH BONE SAUCE

ROAST COD WITH KELP BUTTER SAUCE

BUTTER-POACHED BRILL AND ASPARAGUS WITH WATERCRESS SAUCE

HALIBUT AND ARTICHOKES IN MUSHROOM BROTH AND PINE OIL

FIVE-SPICED MONKFISH WITH GOLDEN RASPBERRY

CHICK O HAKE WITH CHERVIL ROOT PURÉE

TROUT AND TROMBONCINO COURGETTES WITH SAVOURY SAUCE

MARINATED TURBOT AND MUSSELS WITH MISO PICKLE

SOLE FILLETS WITH SMOKED MARROWBONE AND RAZOR CLAM SAUCE

SCALLOPS

SMOKED SCALLOP WITH PEA MOUSSE



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