Slow: Food Worth Taking Time Over
‘A warming cosy treasure trove of a book’ Nigella Lawson‘A sumptuous volume of recipes that urges you to linger in the kitchen.’ The TelegraphFood worth taking time overIn a world where we have less and less time, Gizzi Erskine breathes new life into the idea of ‘slow’.Embrace technique, understand the stories behind your ingredients and learn to savour the art of cooking again. The result of a life-long affair with food, Slow shows you how to braise, bake, poach and roast to truly make the most of every flavour.From nourishing stews, melt-in-the-mouth roasts and indulgent puddings, to simple guides to making your own pasta, noodles, dumplings and pastry, each one of over 100 delicious recipes tells the story of Gizzi’s passion for food that’s worth waiting for.
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An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd
1 London Bridge Street
London SE1 9GF
First published in Great Britain by HQ
An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd 2018
Text copyright © Gizzi Erskine 2018
Photography copyright © Issy Croker 2018
Author photo © Eeva Rinne
Gizzi Erskine asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Hardback ISBN 978-0-00-829194-5
eBook ISBN: 978-0-00-829195-2
Photographer: Issy Croker
Art Director, Props and Food Stylist: Emily Ezekiel
Designer: Dean Martin
Editorial Director: Rachel Kenny
Creative Director: Louise McGrory
Assistant Editor: Celia Lomas
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers.
Contents
Curry Soy Miso Ramen with Roast Butternut Squash, Tofu & Kimchi
Under the Weather All the Veg Soup
Blonde Ragu with Pork, Veal & Sage
Ox Cheeks Stewed with Wine & Beer
How to Poach & Break Up a Crab
Pork & Apple ‘Stroganoff’ with Hot Dog Onions
Braised Chicken with Shallots, Orange Wine & Brandy
Lightly Braised Toulouse Sausages
Braised Peas with Little Gems, Spring Onions & Wild Garlic
Arroz con Mariscos (Hot Bisquey Rice with Oven Roasted Seafood)
Dirty Prawns, Spring Onions & Bacon
Makhani – Proper Butter Masala
Baked Kale, Spinach & Ricotta Stuffed Conchiglioni
Mushroom & Lentil Shepherd’s Pie with Root Veg Mash
Flageolet, Anchovy, Rosemary & Confit Garlic Gratin
Chicken, Buttermilk & Wild Garlic Pie
Smoked Mackerel, Beetroot and Horseradish
Smoked Haddock Mornay Jacket Potato
Chocolate Pavlova with Poached Pears, Salted Caramel & Chocolate Sauces
Sausage, Roasted Squash & Potatoes with Pancetta & Chilli
Roast Duck with Blood Orange Gravy
Roast Chicory, Ham & Parmesan Gratin
Mallorca Slow Roasted Lamb Shoulder
Roast Leg Of Lamb with Garlic, Rosemary & Anchovies
Foolproof Roast Beef Rib & Gravy
Roasted Fennel, Chicory & Shallots in Aged Malt Vinegar
Sesame Miso Roasted Red Cabbage
Beetroot & Horseradish Pierogi with Sour Cream, Brown Butter, Paprika & Braised Sour Red Cabbage
Xian Lamb & Cumin Hand Pulled Noodles
Rosemary Salted Caramel & Apricot Tarte Tatin
Sometimes I feel out of sync with the modern approach to cooking, which seems to be all about valuing convenience over quality. Our obsession with ease and speed puts us in danger of failing to appreciate the joys of technique and process, and what it means to pour love and care into the food we are growing and cooking. Cooking shouldn’t just be about the final result, it should be about the whole experience, and for me that includes finding the best produce and continually educating myself about the history and heritage of the dishes I cook.
There’s no denying that I’ve spent time sitting at my desk reading reviews of my previous books or work on the internet feeling pretty disheartened. While much of my work has received acclaim, the biggest criticisms I get are that people think my work is more complicated than your average popular chef or food writer, and that I don’t support using ingredients that are always easy to find. It’s true that I don’t make things simple for people. I’ve wondered whether I should answer the call for quick and easy recipes, whether I should say it’s OK to use a stock cube and give alternatives for ingredients I love, such as gochujang paste or black vinegar, but I just can’t bring myself to do it.
This is not to say that I haven’t done it in the past. Very early in my career, a TV show wouldn’t allow me to make my own curry paste as they thought this would be too challenging for its audience, so, despite finding the statement patronizing, I used the most basic of supermarket pastes. A different show wanted me to cook a braise in under an hour using chuck steak cut into small cubes. The results are out there for all to see, embedded in the internet; I still panic at the idea of them. At the time I knew I shouldn’t have gone against my instincts, and now – even with the knowledge that I was young and malleable, and that as I’ve grown I’ve become more comfortable with the way I operate as a food writer – they still devastate me.
