Eating for England: The Delights and Eccentricities of the British at Table
Like Nigel Slater’s multi-award-winning food memoir ‘Toast’, this is a celebration of the glory, humour, eccentricities and embarrassments that are the British at Table.The British have a relationship with their food that is unlike that of any other country. Once something that was never discussed in polite company, it is now something with which the nation is obsessed. But are we at last developing a food culture or are we just going through the motions?‘Eating for England’ is an entertaining, detailed and somewhat tongue-in-cheek observation of the British and their food, their cooking, their eating and how they behave in restaurants, with chapters on – amongst other things – dinner parties, funeral teas, Indian restaurants, dieting and eating whilst under the influence.Written in Nigel Slater’s trademark readable style, ‘Eating for England’ highlights our idiosyncratic attitude towards the fine art of dining.
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Eating for England
The Delights and Eccentricities of the British at Table
Nigel Slater
Fourth Estate
An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd. 1 London Bridge Street London SE1 9GF
First published in Great Britain by Fourth Estate in 2007
Copyright © Nigel Slater 2007
Nigel Slater asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work
Some Photographs were unavailable for the electronic edition.
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HarperCollinsPublishers has made every reasonable effort to ensure that any picture content and written content in this ebook has been included or removed in accordance with the contractual and technological constraints in operation at the time of publication
Source ISBN: 9780007199471
Ebook Edition © FEBRUARY 2012 ISBN: 9780007370047
Version: 2016-09-22
For D and P and in memory of M
Contents
Copyright
Preface
In a Stew
Harvest Festival
The Lunchbox
Toblerone
The Kitchen Fusspot
Black Pudding
Cake Forks and Sticky Fingers
Shopping on the Internet – Couch Potatoes
The Biscuit Tin
The Digestive
Bread and Butter Pudding
Eating Soldiers
Lunch on a Bench
Combating that Sinking Feeling
The Coffee Percolator
Faggots and Gravy
The Naked Cook
Murray Mints
The Farmers’ Market – An Allotment for Wimps
Rhubarb and Custard
Fruit and Nut
The Setting of Jam
Oxo Cubes
Feeding the Elderly
Custard
A Custard
The Economical Cook
The Voucher Queen
A Cake Walk through Britain
The Gingerbread Wars
Shopping for Meat
Toast – The Story of a Nation’s Hunger
Frogspawn and Nosebleeds
Stirring Jam into Your Rice Pudding – Or Not
The Nut Cutlet
A Child in the Restaurant – 1964
Toffees
The Midnight Feast
Jacob’s Club
Rubbernecking – The Lost Art of Celebrity-Spotting
The Wind in Your Face, a Fish in Your Bag
Summer Cooking
The Jaffa Cake
The Village Shop – The Font of All Knowledge and Fairy Soap
Tripe and Onions
Aga Toast
The Chocolate Digestive
The Rich Tea
Fudge
Ribena
Filling Your Bag
Old English Spangles
Fry’s Five Centres
Making Coffee
Breakfast
The Chocolate Bar – A Curiously British Obsession
‘My Name is Carol and I am a Chocoholic’
Your Life in Your Hands
Chopsticks at Dawn
Heinz Tomato Ketchup
Kia Ora
Tipping, as Only the Brits Know How
Jelly Babies
This Little Piggy
The Tight-Arse Cook
Washing Up
Mashed Swede
Ginger Cake
Cream Sponge
Eating in the Street – ‘I’ll Have That with Wings’
Throwing a Coffee Morning
The Cadbury’s Flake
A Teenager at the Table
Scones and the Sultana Problem
Bourbon Biscuits
Dairylea
Custard Creams
Modern Shopping
The Ritual of the KitKat
The Slightly Grubby Wholemeal Cook
Cyril’s Stew
Dripping – The Heart and Soul
A Taste of the Future
Floral Gums
Sherbet Lemons
Fray Bentos Steak-and-Kidney Pie
Eating Outdoors
Eating Pomegranates with a Pin
Mint Cracknel
Winter Food
The Jammie Dodger
Liquorice Sticks
Liquorice Wood
The Chocolate Finger and That One with the Hole In
A Good Roasting
Boiled Brussels Sprouts
Pontefract Cakes
Bath Chaps
Fancy Toast
White Food
Golden Mint Humbugs
Lardy Cake
The Expense Account Lunch
The Suburban Day Out Lunch
Quality Street
Branston Pickle
Paying the Price
A Third-Generation Fishmonger
The Work of Pixies
Gravy
The Extravagant Cook
That Old Black Magic
Brawn and Mustard
Trifle – A Social Indicator
The Best Biscuit of All?
